Needle Know How
Needles are listed by type, purpose and size. Follow the basic guidelines for what type of needle and size of needle to use for different types and weights of fabrics.
Universal Needles
Universal Needles have a semi ball point. The point is neither sharp, nor rounded. They are all purpose and used for 90% of your sewing.
Universal 60 For very light weight fabric; must be used with fine 60 wt. threads, often used in heirloom sewing.
Universal 70 For light weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 80 Standard all purpose size for medium weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 90 For heavier weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Universal 100, 110 and 120 For heavy weight fabrics; can be used with regular weight sewing and embroidery threads.
Stretch Needles
Stretch needles are ball pointed and designed to be used on stretch fabrics. Try a stretch needle anytime you experience skipped stitches.
Stretch 75 For medium to light weight stretch fabrics.
Stretch 90 For medium to heavy weight stretch fabrics.
Denim/Jeans Needles
Denim/Jeans needles have a sharp point and are a strong needle. They are ideal for all weights of woven fabrics. The sharp point will penetrate the heavier fabrics, and also penetrate the fiber itself for a straight, even stitch. A ball point or universal needle can deflect off to one side or another and give a crooked looking stitch. If you are topstitching in a contrast color of thread, it can be very noticeable.
Denim 70 for light weight woven fabrics
Denim 80 for medium to light weight woven fabrics
Denim 90 and 100 for medium to heavy woven fabrics
Denim 110 for very heavy woven fabrics
Microtex/Sharp Needles
Sharp point for perfectly straight stitches. For use in topstitching or edge stitching on silk, microfiber or other tightly woven fabrics.
Microtex/Sharp 60 for very light weight woven fabrics, must be used with fine weight thread
Microtex/Sharp 70 for light to medium weight woven fabrics
Microtex/Sharp 80, and 90 for medium to heavy weight woven fabrics
Topstitch Needles
Extra sharp with an extra large eye and a large groove to accommodate topstitch thread. Use where larger eye size is beneficial, for example Sulky 12 and 30 wt. cotton threads. If your thread is shredding, try a topstitch needle.
Topstitch 12/80 light to medium weight woven fabrics
Topstitch 14/90 medium weight woven fabrics
Topstitch 16/100 heavy weight woven fabrics
Leather Needles
Leather Needles have a wedge shaped, cutting point for leather and heavy non-woven synthetics.
Leather 12/80 light weight leather
Leather 14/90 and 16/100 medium weight leather
Leather 18/110 heavy weight leather
Hemstitch Needles
Single wing needle for decorative hem stitching on tightly woven natural fiber fabrics. The “wing” creates small holes by separating the fibers, when used with hemstitches.
Hemstitch 100 and120 for all weights of fabric
Quilting Needles
Special taper to point prevents damage to the sensitive, high quality materials used in quilting.
Quilting 75 and 90 assorted and 90 for all weights quilting fabric.
Embroidery Needles
For use with rayon and specialty machine embroidery thread. Use a smaller size needle with lighter weight threads and the 90 with heavier threads up to 30 wt.
Embroidery Assorted sizes 75and 90, and 90 for all weights fabric
Metallic Needles
Provides trouble-free sewing with metallic threads. It has a large eye and a large groove to prevent shredding of the metallic threads while the stitch is being formed.
Metallic 12/80 for lighter weight threads, all weights fabric
Metallic 14/90 for heavier weight threads, all weights fabric
Self-Threading Needles
General purpose needle with slip-in threading slot for people who have difficulty threading needles.
Self Threading 12/80 for light to medium weight fabric
Self Threading 14/90 for medium to heavy fabric
Twin Needles
Two needles on a single shaft. Can be used with zig zag machines that thread front to back. Sews two rows of stitching at the same time. Width has to be limited, depending on the distance between the two needles. If your machine has a twin needle safety, enter the size of the needle you are using and the width will be automatically limited. The size describes both the size of the needle and the distance between the needle. For example in 1.6/70, the 1.6 is the millimeter distance between the two needles. The 70 is the actual size of the needle. The twin needle is often used with a Pintuck foot to create twin needle Pintucks. The distance between the needles needs to match the number of grooves in the bottom of the foot.
Twin 1.6/70 Light weight fabrics
Twin 2.0/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 2.5/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/80 Medium weight fabrics
Twin 3.0/90 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/90 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 4.0/100 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Twin 6.0/100 Medium to heavy weight fabrics
Triple Needles
Three needles on one shaft. Often called a drilling needle, it is usually used to sew three rows of topstitching. Use with a straight stitch only.
Triple 2.5 and Triple 3.0 medium to heavy weight fabric.